Dear reader,
I’m sorry to have been offline for a while, believe it or not, I have been busy. But now my semester has ended and I have a lot of free time, so perhaps I’ll keep this blog alive from now on. (Note: I wrote this part at the start of December, so I guess the answer is no.)
If you are wondering why there is a post about Cuba in a blog called ‘Dutchy in Mexico’, well I do not have all the answers for you. (Read: I felt like it and it’s my blog, so I can write whatever I want.) I will end by reflecting on Mexico though, so in my mind it almost makes sense.
Anyways, as you may or may not know, in December I have been to Cuba, and it was… something else. I don’t proclaim to be the authority on Cuba, because honestly I have only been to Havana, so feel free to experience Cuba for yourself and make up your own mind about this extraordinary country.
If you are planning on doing this, here are a few tips: As many people I met during my first day told me, Cuba is difficult. This means you have to pay everywhere in cash (and probably more than the local population, because they use a different currency -CUP for locals, CUC for foreigners-). Another thing to keep in mind is that you can usually only retrieve cash with a visa credit card (and not in many locations), so a MasterCard won’t always do (and other types of cards will definitely not work out for you). And last of my practical tips: there is no normal internet in Cuba, nor is it easy to call someone. The only way to access the internet is buying cards that give you access to a Wi-Fi network for one hour (the cost is 1 CUC). This entails that you can only use this internet in certain locations, and don’t be too optimistic, because this internet only lends for sending and receiving messages, if you want to download something, like a map (useful for someone like me who gets lost all the time) or a film, you’re out of luck. If you want to have something to do in the evening, you might consider bringing a nice book or downloading some films or series beforehand. Also: many things from the US, like certain apps on iphones (app store) are blocked because of the whole US government boycotting the Cuban economy, which in turn leads to mutual boycott-activity.
So, with that out of the way, it’s personal experience time. Let me begin by stating that I’m most probably very biased, because I have been having a wonderful time in Mexico with amazing people, and though I do not at all think that these countries are alike, it is a better reference I have than the Netherlands, mostly because of the fact that I am a foreigner in both, a completely different experience than being a local in my own country.
So my plan is to start with a tip, follow up with a top, and conclude with another tip.
Tip: I’ll just be honest and make a bold statement here: In general, I like the Mexican people I have met more than the Cuban people I have met. I know that from a research standpoint this claim does not hold water, because my test group in Cuba is waaay to small and my test group in Mexico is probably not very representative of the population as a whole, but if people found research more important than sentiments, current politics would look very differently. To make it a tiny bit researchy, i’ll present you with some numbers:
From the 7 Cubans I have had a decent conversation with in the first few days that goes further than the regular cat-calling or shouting ‘hola’ desperately in my general direction (I will get back to that), at least 4 wanted something from me. Two wanted me to take a picture of them, but considering that that is not a great effort and the fact that they were lovely people who gave me all kinds of tips on what I should do in Havana, I have not counted them as ‘wanting something from me’. 2 of them were probably single men who kept walking beside me, even though I made it clear in the beginning that I’d rather walk alone, of which 1 almost certainly wanted to get in my pants, and the other one perhaps if I had shown more interest, but he was sort of a chill dude in the end. 2 of them (a couple most likely) were nice, but when my friend and I left, they kept asking for money, probably faking a pregnancy. Don’t get me wrong, I get it, the Cuban population is generally extremely poor and is often unable to pay for basic needs like food, so I want to make it clear that I realize that I am in a very fortunate position, but in this case I am just sharing my experiences as a tourist without giving a value judgement of specific people.
I also got the sense that people are generally less happy and open than Mexicans, and again, I get their reasons, but just comparing the country to Mexico, a country where extreme poverty also exists, even people with very little means in Mexico usually seem to want to make the best of it and do not blame me for their misery and/or treat me as a despicable piece of crap because I am a tourist.
I feel like it also might be quite common for Cubans to not want to serve anyone who seems like a tourist. I went to the same bakery every day (the coffee was really good), but one lady who worked there did not want to serve me. After waiting for about 10 minutes because after she responded with ‘no’ to my order she straight on ignored me and helped other customers, I got a chance to ask her why she would not serve me, to which she replied that she did not have change. If she had told me that right away there would not have been any problem since I had the exact amount of money with me. Oh and also, seconds later she did miraculously have change for other customers. I would understand her behaviour had I been a complete dick the previous times, but I promise always behaved like a good gal (even though I myself was often treated like crap).
In short, in my experience and that most of the people I have talked to who have went to/ are in Cuba, if you’re a young female person alone or in the company of more young female persons, most Cubans who approach you will try to get into your pants (I will get back to that), and if you’re a guy, most Cubans might ask for money. In bars and restaurants mainly for locals (the ones with a reasonable price) you might not get served for the simple fact that you are foreign. Now keep in mind that this is in the reasonably touristic parts of town, I have heard from a male friend in Cuba that when he went to a non-touristic place, he was mostly left alone and actually met some very nice people (but this was not enough to convince him to stick to his plan of staying in Cuba for a month, so after hearing my stories of Mexico, he bought a ticket to this beautiful country within a week and I feel like he does not regret that decision one bit).
Top(s): the architecture in some places, mostly the touristic ones, is beautiful and has a one-of-a-kind vibe to it. Havana’s old town is full of colonial style buildings in summery colours, which is probably the reason why it attracts so many tourists. I’ve also heard that Cuba has some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, but since I’m not a beach-person, you should trust the internet or other people instead of me. I have only been to one ‘beach’, but I should have looked into that one more. I honestly just saw that it was a public beach on google maps and asked the owner of the hostel how to get there, assuming she would let me know if this was the most unrecommendable place in all of Havana. Turns out she did not see it that way, and I ended up dragging my friend to a heap of sand of about 70m2 full of broken glass and other garbage in a shabby place behind a building you could rent for events (I wouldn’t recommend that either), but officially this was the public beach of western Havana. In the end we ended up discussing for 10 minutes with a vendor of fruits because he did not get (or want to get) that we did not want a whole bucket of his strange oranges, but just a few for on the road (I was okay with paying for the bucket, I just did not want to drag a kilo of bitter oranges I was never going to eat with me in the bus), so he just told us repeatedly that our Spanish was insufficient instead of taking the money and not be a dick about it, and after this we took the bus back to the hostel. If you want to go to a nice beach nearby Havana, you could go to Varadero, many people have told me it’s beautiful there.
Tip: So now the long awaited rant on many Cuban males I have been ‘in contact’ with. Soo, for some reason catcalling is just as normalised as breathing in Cuba. Maybe they mean well, but this honestly made me permanently feel very shitty during my stay here. If you think I’m a drama queen for using the term ‘permanently’, consider the fact that I’m not at all exaggerating when I say I was being catcalled about every 10 seconds when I was not accompanied by a guy. The usual was ‘just’ making kissing noises at me or shouting ‘hi’ in my face like their life depended on it, but occasionally they would keep walking beside me until I was in the hostel even though I was clearly not into that (the fact that they now knew where I was staying honestly made me feel uncomfortable, but I did not really know what else to do in order to shake them off) or shamelessly taking pictures of me, while responding ‘you pretty’ (in Spanish) when I said something similar to ‘what the fuck dude, delete that’ (in Spanish). I have honestly never felt so inhuman before in my life, with almost all young men treating me like an object. This may be a cultural thing and not meant to make you feel bad, but as a Dutch person who has grown up in an entirely different culture, it did make me feel worthless. Those of you who know me well might know that I love to socialize and meet new people, but in Havana a great day was one in which I was mostly left alone (my friend who decided to come to Mexico definitely shares this sentiment). My tip for young(ish) gals out there: If you don’t want to be catcalled every few seconds by Cuban men, make sure to wear a boyfriend, or someone who looks the part. The last few days I hung out with a male friend and besides from getting intense looks (so intense that my friend felt extremely uncomfortable in my place) I was left alone and actually felt like a human being with emotions and experiences again.
In short:
Do I want to go back? No ……
Was it a worthwhile experience? I guess it was, mostly because it greatly renewed my appreciation for Mexico and its people, I am now enjoying every pleasant human interaction (which occurs almost as often as the catcalling in Havana did). I almost got used to the amazing warmth and openness of Mexican people before going to Cuba, but now I take the time to appreciate it and reflect on the fact that I’m extremely fortunate to be able to experience this and to have met so many amazing people who will always have a special place in my heart.